By Michael Kwas
Madison Magazine
Special To Channel 3000

In the early 1980s about a dozen enterprising vintners sought to rescue Rhone grape varietals that were in danger of extinction in California. By resurrecting these 19th-century vineyards and planting new vines (especially Syrah), these "Rhone Rangers" succeeded in expanding the palate of grapes grown in California beyond Cabernet and Chardonnay. More than just a whim, the Rangers believed that California's climate was better suited to grapes that flourished in France's southern Rhone Valley.

Today, varietals such as Syrah, Grenache, and Viognier are commonplace in California, especially in the state's central coast region where they make a powerful argument to support the Rangers' claim. The following is conceived to match a six course late-summer dinner, although the wines are very food-friendly and flexible.

Bonny Doon "Vin Gris de Cigar" 2006 $14
A classic French assembly of Grenache, Syrah and Cinsault with a good dose of Grenache Blanc to liven it up. Dry, fresh, full of wild strawberry fruit. Drink well chilled as an aperitif.

Cline Marsanne/Rousanne Carneros 2006 $15
A wonderful combination of Alsace-like texture and northern-Italian citrusy acidity. Clean but complex enough for an assertive antipasti plate.

Consilience Grenache Blanc Santa Barbara 2006 $24
A sophisticated, complex wine emerges from this workhorse grape. Rich but restrained, it's more than an alternative to Chardonnay--it's a dry, full-bodied wine with fascinating flavors of exotic pear, spice and minerals. Wonderful with salmon.

Morgan "Cote du Crow's" Monterey 2006 $20
A blend of roughly half Grenache and half Syrah, this spicy middleweight shows bright berry flavors and a pretty floral character. Dry, with light tannin, this works well with grilled tuna or chicken.

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